Basic lessons for getting desired hair color

 

5 STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION

• STYLE & STYLING

1. DETERMINE THE NATURAL LEVEL (NL)

   The Natural Series in the framesi® Framcolor® swatch books are a quick, convenient reference to accurately determine the current level of color in the hair.  Simply match the correct color swatch with hair at the back of the head nearest the scalp.  The hair should be lifted slightly off of the scalp.  Be careful not to push it flat against the scalp as this will make it appear darker.

   The levels may differ from one color company to another, so it’s extremely important to determine the natural level by using the swatches from the framesi® swatch books.

2. DETERMINE THE DESIRED LEVEL (DL)

   During the consultation phase, you and your client will have discussed the new haircolor you wish to achieve.  With framesi®, the level number you choose will always be the same as the level you wish to achieve.  

   Before you can proceed to step 3, you need to understand remaining color and the lifting process.  At each level of lift, color always remains in the hair (remaining color), so your final color is actually a combination of these 2 colors.

   The Guiding Principle of Haircolor:   
   Remaining color at lift level + the framesi® color base=the final color

   Please refer to Remaining Color Chart found in all framesi® technical manuals:

   Framcolor® 2001 Technical Manual
   Framcolor® 2001 Wall Chart 
   Framcolor® Glamour Technical Manual
   Framcolor® Glamour Wall Chart 
   Framcolor® Eclectic Technical Manual 
   Framcolor® Eclectic Wall Chart 
   

   The color wheel is a tool used to visualize color theory.  Colors directly across the wheel from each other are opposites.  Mixing a color with its opposite always results in “browning out”.  Do you want to ENHANCE the Remaining Color?  Do you want to REFINE the Remaining Color?

   Note:  Remember, when lifting color, there will always be warm tones remaining, never cool tones.

3. DETERMINE THE TONAL VALUE OF THE DESIRED LEVEL

   The true success of mixing color and achieving predictable results lies in understanding and applying simple color concepts inherent in the Universal Law of Color.

   Remember that all hair (except gray hair) contains all 3 primary colors – red, blue and yellow.  When hair is lightened, the warmer red and yellow tones are exposed.  The tone of the desired color is achieved by combining the remaining color at the lift level with the proper selection of one or more of the framesi® bases.  

4. DETERMINE THE CORRECT DEVELOPER

   The level you wish to achieve will determine the particular developer required.  Please refer to Developer Usage Chart found in all framesi® technical manuals.  Because of the lower ammonia content and rich conditioning base of all framesi® colors, it is necessary to follow framesi’s developer usage chart to achieve the most predictable results.
   
   

   
   
   

5. DETERMINE THE PERCENTAGE OF GRAY HAIR

   In many situations, you will also need to determine the percentage of gray in the natural hair color.  Because gray hair lacks all pigment, it is necessary to choose shades that will replace the missing primaries.  Since the Natural Series contains all 3 primaries in proportioned amounts, it is recommended to use the N series in proportioned amounts according the the % of gray in the hair.  In addition to the Natural Series, framesi® offers many other options for gray coverage without intermixing.   
   With Framcolor® Glamour, every single shade covers gray without the need to intermix.  Framcolor® 2001 contains 6 beautiful bases that cover gray when used alone.  Framcolor® Futura will soon be launching the NN Series, used alone for the most resistant gray coverage.

   Note:  as your clients age and become more gray, it may be necessary to adjust their color formulations.  

In conclusion, these 5 simple steps are basic, yet essential for a successful color service.  As stylists, we sometimes forget how basic and simple a problem may be.  When you start tacking an issue, or ask the questions in order to determine the cause of the problem (hot roots, inferior gray coverage, uneven results), the problem is always found in the 5 Steps to Successful ColorFormulation.   Next time your color results are not what you expected…..Remember the Basics!

https://www.framesiprofessional.com/5-steps-to-color-formulation/

10 Tips For Formulating The Hair Color of Your Client’s Dreams

Follow our Hair Color Formula Guide to create your client’s best hair color yet! Knowing these tips will ensure absolute color success.

1) Know Thy Color Wheel

Color Theory is Cosmetology 101!

Understanding the relationship between colors is essential when formulating your client’s ideal hair color.

The Color Wheel is comprised of 3 Primary Colors: Red, Yellow, Blue, and 3 Secondary Colors: Green, Violet, Orange. Tertiary Colors are created by combining a primary color with the secondary color beside it on the Color Wheel. Example: Yellow-Orange

Knowing which of these colors enhance and cancel out one another is vital for formulating the correct hair color. For example, if you’re looking to eliminate unwanted warmth (red), selecting a cooler tone (green) will effectively neutralize the previous color.

2) Know Predominant Tones

Every color line has various predominant tones (background pigment found in each hair color tube or bottle).

When formulating your client’s perfect hair color, it’s important to know the different background pigments present in your color line. For example, one line’s ‘N-series’ or ‘neutrals’ could fall on the warmer side of the Color Wheel; whereas, another line could have a tonal value at the blue-violet base.

If you aren’t aware of your color line’s predominant pigments, then you will not be able to accurately use the Color Wheel to create your client’s desired color.

3) Determine Client’s Natural Level

Hair color will range from levels 1-10. Level 1 being the darkest and Level 10 being the lightest color.

Within each of those levels are the 2 underlying color pigments: eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (red-brown), which control the shade of the hair. Dark hair (levels 1-4), contain high concentration of red pigment; whereas, blonde hair (levels 7-10) consists of mainly golden pigments. If your client’s level is somewhere in the middle (levels 5-6), more orange pigments are present in the hair, a combination of red and yellow.

Whether you are lifting or depositing, knowing which tones are present in your client’s natural level will help you make a better color choice.

4) Understand Grey Vs. White Hair

Grey and white hair are not the same, and should not be treated as such.

Grey hair still contains some pigment; whereas, white hair color does not. Often, not knowing the difference between white and grey hair can result in muddy color results or lack of proper pigment load.

Think about it.

White hair is completely absent of pigment. If you mix the colors white and red, what would be the result? Pink!

When dealing with white hair it necessary to add the missing anchor pigments to give the color you’re depositing something to hold on to.

Grey hair is actually an optical illusion, it contains both the color of pigmented hair and white hair. Since grey hair still contains some pigment, it should be formulated differently than white hair.

In addition, knowing the ratio of white or grey hair to pigmented hair is necessary when formulating. For example, if hair is 75% grey, you may want to consider lowering your developer to color ratio – allowing for more color than developer, or dropping down a level for ample pigment weight.

5) Consultation is Key

As a professional Hair Stylist, it’s your job to direct and steer the consultation with your client.

Client’s may think they are in the driver’s seat, but you’re the instructor with the emergency peddle – pump the breaks when necessary to avoid a hairy disaster!

For example, if your client’s hair is in poor condition and would not be able to withstand a perm or extreme lightening service, then don’t be afraid to speak up.

Also, be sure you and your client are on the same page when it comes to color selection.

More than likely, you and your client’s idea of a ‘honey blonde’ or ‘red-brown’ will vary. We suggest having them bring in a few photos of their desired color, and having them point out what they do and do not like about each picture.

This will give great insight when formulating, and help you understand what your client expects from their color service.

You should also be inquiring if your client is currently taking any medications.

Medications for the heart and thyroid are just some of the medication types that can completely alter your color results.

PRO TIP: Use Malibu’s Crytal Gel for 100% removal of build up, medications, and hard water minerals prior to your color service.

6) Determine Hair’s Porosity, Density, & Texture

The importance of determining the health of your client’s hair and their hair type cannot be overstated.

Fine, medium, and coarse hair all absorb color differently.

Damaged and pre-lightened hair tends to be more porous. Porous hair tends to over accept color (especially ash tones), so depending on your desired result, your formula will have to take into consideration the hair’s porosity level.

Additionally, the more porous the hair, the less amount of processing time and developer volume is needed.

If hair is overly porous or coarse and resistant (e.g., grey hair), you’ll need to treat the hair prior to your color service.

For instance, if hair is porous, it is lacking protein, and could use a protein treatment.

Note: Use a treatment with the proper pH; actual conditioner will close the cuticle, making it more difficult for color molecules to be absorbed into the hair.

PRO TIP: Try Powerbuild Reconstructor (80% protein, 20% moisture)

P.S. Just like Miley Cyrus and raunchy publicity stunts, protein and color molecules are attracted to each other; adding protein to the equation will help your hair color be richer and longer lasting!

If hair is coarse, the cuticle scales are tightly packed down and need to be softened. Treating the hair prior to service will allow the hair’s cuticle to open and accept the color, all without using a stronger developer.

PRO TIP: Try Aquaboost Reconstructor (80% moisture, 20% protein)

Also, different nationalities tend to yield different hair textures.

For example, Asian hair tends to be very round shaped, and African-American hair tends to be quite flat. The natural shape of the hair will affect hair’s texture and consequent processing time.

7) Know Your Developer Strengths

Understand the lifting ability of your developers!

Each color line’s developers will vary in strength.

One line’s 20 volume developer may give you 1-2 levels of lift, where some color lines will just deposit. The power of each developer should be known before mixing it with a color or lightening powder, so that the structural integrity of the hair is kept intact.

FRIENDLY REMINDER: Color doesn’t lift color, at least not with predictability. 

8) Proper Mixing

Knowing your color to developer mixing ratio is vital to color success!

For example, most High Lift blonde series will require a larger amount of developer. Instead of mixing color to developer of 1:1, high lift blonde will need the added strength of more developer to get to a lighter lever, so use a mixing ratio of 2 (developer):1 (color).

Also, be sure to accurately assess the amount of hair your client has. That way, you don’t have to go mix more color while the applied color is processing on the hair.

9) Proper Processing Time

A numerous amount of factors will affect your color’s processing time!

Here’s a few to take into consideration:

Health of Hair

How Many Levels of Lift

Percentage of Grey or White Hair

Strength of Developer Used

Hair Texture

Also, be sure to consult your manufacturer’s Technical Manual for recommended color processing times; these will vary color line to color line.

10) Phone a Friend!

When we say phone a friend, what we really mean is don’t be afraid to contact Tech Support for your color line!

This is especially true if you’re a new user to your color line. Tech Support will more than likely be armed with a plethora of tools such as, conversion charts and tech tips that will help you become a raving success with your new color, so don’t be afraid to ask questions!

https://www.simplyorganicbeauty.com/hair-color-formulation-guide/amp/